The old town of Naxos showed itself on a warm late summer morning in that special light that arises when the Aegean sun hits white-whitewashed walls. Already on the ascent from the harbour in the direction of the historic Kastro diart, a light wind accompanied the visitor, which carried the scent of sea salt, freshly baked bread and a trace of jasmine. The city seemed inviting and at the same time mysterious, as if it wanted to reveal its stories only to those who were willing to look closely.
The further the road led uphill, the narrower the alleys became. In the small shops that opened on both sides, local artisans offered their works: handmade jewellery, colourful ceramics and leather goods that came from the hands of experienced masters. Behind open doors, insights into the workshops could be gained – older men polishing silver, women weaving traditional fabrics, and playing children whose laughter filled the alleys. The old town seemed alive, as if its centuries-old history lived on in every corner.
IN THE centre of the Kastro, the Venetian part of the old town, THE atmosphere changed noticeably. The massive walls, narrow windows and old stone gates commemorated a time when the neighbourhood served as a fortified noble residence. From a small terrace there was an impressive view: below was a labyrinth of white houses, above the wide sky and in the distance the deep blue sea, in which the sunlight sparkled. The sight conveyed a mixture of width and security.
On the further way, the visitor came across a small Orthodox chapel, which lay quietly in an inconspicuous corner. Inside there was a cool silence, filled with the scent of burning candles. The colourful icons on the walls seemed timeless, as if they had survived the centuries unchanged. An elderly man entered the chapel, crucified himself and remained in silent prayer for a few minutes – a scene that emphasised the spiritual dimension of this place.
Back outside, the path led along an alley covered with vines. Under this green roof was a small tavern. The visitor took a seat, ordered a locally produced white wine and a plate of Dakos and observed the changing play of lights between the leaves. Passing travellers from different countries filled the scene: couples in quiet conversation, locals in friendly exchange with the owners, groups of young people whose voices and gestures radiated joie de vivre.
As the day came to an end and the sun slowly sank in the west, the old town of Naxos began to change its face again. The white walls glowed in the warm evening light, and the sky showed soft tones of orange and pink. From the harbour, the sea shimmered as if it were made of liquid metal.
Looking back it became clear: The old town of Naxos is not only an architectural ensemble, but an atmospheric place whose mixture of history, everyday life and Mediterranean lasting lightness leaves an impression.
